Middle Aged Mountain Climbers

Early thoughts on 2012

2011-11-06T17:29:00.001-05:00

Yes it's only November, but it's looking like the theme for this years climbing season is "summiting the unsummited". 4 mountains I've climbed and not submitted, Mt Baker, Mt Shasta, Mt St Helen's and Cotopaxi in Ecuador. Not much that I can do about Ecuador, barring a lottery win, so my focus will be on the other three. Currently the plan is looking like Shasta in June up the standard route, St Helen's I. Late July so my 13 year old can go with me, and Baker in August or September.

My wife is awesome and is on board, planning begins this week, than training!

Lame, but happy holidays

2010-12-19T12:38:00.004-05:00

I have been so negligent on my postings for the last few months. Why you ask? No great excuse. Work has been pretty busy and the family takes time too! Both kids have chronic lyme disease which is one of the toughest experiences to go through. The symptoms are not obvious, so people have a hard time acknowledging that the kids are sick. The flairs are unpredictable, come and go, and aren't controllable or curable. The toughest part is watching the kids go through it and feeling helpless.

I guess the point is to be careful out there in the woods when hiking, climbing or just being. Those little ticks are bastards and don't discriminate.

Slide Show of Mt Adams Climb - 9/2010

2010-09-18T19:55:00.001-04:00

Mt Hood Climb - June 13, 2010

2010-06-19T23:32:00.000-04:00

Dog Mountain Hike - Columbia River Gorge

2010-06-19T23:26:00.000-04:00

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Mt. Defiance - The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly

2010-05-31T12:39:00.000-04:00

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Mt Defiance -- One Tough MoFo

2010-05-31T12:30:00.002-04:00

Mt Hood is 2 weeks away so I am in the throes of the final stages of training. So, this weekend, I hiked up Mt Defiance. Who knows is any of this is true, but some people say its harder than Hood, and some people say its the toughest hike in Oregon. Whatever it is, its a killer! Basically, 4,900 ft elevation gain in 5.2 miles. Its literally straight up hill with very little rest. The views from the top are amazing although we couldn't see Hood since it was socked in.

This was more of a climb than a hike!

Today's Hike at Nesmith Point - Serious Butt Kicker

2010-05-22T20:29:00.000-04:00

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Today's Hike up King's Mountain

2010-03-14T22:11:00.001-04:00

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BCEP I could have loved you

2010-03-13T16:24:00.001-05:00

I was all excited about the BCEP course with the Mazamas but I got the schedule and just can't do it. Its 6 weeks, with events almost every weekend day and monday night. Not sure how any guy with a high pressure job and a family can do it. and then, to make matters worse, my best person quit. so, too much work for burt to put his life on hold this year for 6 weeks.

so, back to weekend hiking and a new version of BCEP, Burts climbing education program. Here I come Gorge, Mt Hood and coastal range.

"Gearing Up"

2010-03-10T22:23:00.002-05:00

I am not the blogger I once was. Since moving to Portland, life has been crazy. Working harder than I've ever worked, moving into a fantastic new house, hanging with the family and just creating a life here is fantastic, but exhausting! and my blogging has suffered.

Have no fear though. Monday, 3/15, i kick off the first night of the Mazama Basic Climbing Education Program. I joined the Mazamas when we got to Portland. The class teaches rock climbing, mountaineering and a host of subjects and gets me in shape to climb in spring and summer. 6 weeks, a lecture a week, 3 weekend sessions and at least 4 conditioning hikes. I can't wait. Also a great way to meet a lot of people. I will blog as I go through it.

Its On! Mt. Hood in June 2010

2010-01-02T13:01:00.005-05:00

Happy New Year! Its been a long time. But, now that we live in the center of the outdoor universe, its time to commit. So, Mark and I are climbing Mt Hood June 12-13 with Timberline Mountain Guides (2 day summit program).

I am very excited to have it booked and to have a goal to train for. I am also going to try and take the BCEP program with the Mazamas group that I joined. They are a 100+ year old organization based on Portland who are all about climbing. It looks like 2010 is shaping up to be a nicely elevated year!

Also, looking into try Baker again in August. Wow, I am tired now. Nap time.

Ecuador Photos Part III

2009-07-30T00:23:00.002-04:00

Ecuador Photos Part II

2009-07-30T00:23:00.001-04:00

Ecuador Photos Part I

2009-07-30T00:20:00.001-04:00

Whew! I'm Back

2009-07-03T10:05:00.002-04:00

I am back, after an incredible time in Ecuador. I am being lazy so give me a bit of time to update the blog. Suffice it to say, Ecuador was AWESOME!!!!!

Be back soon.

In Portland for Interviews, Perfect Place to Supplement Gear

2009-06-13T12:13:00.003-04:00

I have been in Portland OR this week interviewing for a potential job that I am excited about. Of course, as my life is never easy, my Portland trip is one week away from my Ecuador trip. Until yesterday, I was prepping for the interviews. But those are over now and went well (I think) so today I turn my entire focus towards some big F'ing volcanoes in Ecuador.

Worked out, and am now going to start doing a gear check. The good news, is Portland is an outdoor paradise with plenty of places to go to fill in the missing pieces of gear. Today looks like I will buy a camera, gloves, more socks and liners, and some super feet insoles for my boots. I have been having some achilles issues lately (self diagnosed Achilles Tendonitis) so I am looking for all the support possible and SuperFeet insoles are supposed to be great. Might also look at a new, lighter headlamp.

All Geared Up and Pretty Ready to Go

2009-06-09T09:21:00.002-04:00

Building on the last post, finally getting close to fully geared up. I think I might still need some socks and sock liners, but pretty covered otherwise. Mark is dealing with the Meds which is great. I ended up getting the pair of boots in the photo with one bad D Ring for $40! They retail new for $320!!! Love doing this on the cheap. If you ever want to save money buy buying used equipment, the best time to do it is before you guy on life threatening expeditions. Just kidding Mom!

The one thing I still need to figure out is photography. My goal is to streamline devices this time and only take one camera that does both video and stills.

My training has been good but I will never believe that I am ready until I am done climbing. A lot of gym time, using stair steppers and ellipticals on the highest resistance, and hiking up hills with a 50 pound pack. I have a sore achilles tendon, which I have self diagnosed as Achilles Tendonitis, and bought support for that and my right knee to hopefully minimize pain. I leave in a week and a half and am very excited.

First, though, off to Portland for a job interview. My potential boss's office has a direct view of Mt. Hood. Is that a sign or what?

Not Posting That Much Doesn't Mean That I Don't Care

2009-06-04T19:36:00.002-04:00

I haven't posted in about a month but a lot has been going on. I am still interviewing but feeling good about my prospects and hopefully getting close to something. I have been traveling semi-often to meet with the companies that I am speaking to.

But, the most exciting news is that Ecuador is 16 days away from today!!!! I am so excited. Today was gear day. I set up to rent some stuff (crampons, helmet, harness) and bought a bunch of used gear on which I got great pricing. For $270 I got mountaineering boots (Scarpa Invernos), Ice Axe, GoreTex shell (Mountain Hardwear Typhoon) and a self inflating sleeping pad (Mammut Light). All great stuff in great condition. And the beauty is, most of the prices were within $10 of the rental fee, so I got some great buys! I will continue to update as I get closer.

Ecuador here we come!

Two Weeks and Counting

2009-05-05T10:37:00.003-04:00

With two weeks to go until the commitment date I am doing what I can to get into shape. Although not a lot of huge mountains in NY, there are a number of huge SIMULATED mountains at New York Sports Clubs! I am routinely working on Ellipticals, Stair Steppers (the treadmill of stairs) and found another interesting machine yesterday that will soon be added to the repertoire. In addition, Sam the trainer, who never shows and always cancels, is helping me work on my core, my stamina, and overall strength.

In addition to NYSC, I am hiking when I can with my pack on. I found a hiking trail thats bisected by a telephone pole "road" which basically goes straight up and straight down the side of a decent sized hill. Its a butt killer. But working towards Ecuador!

I'm Back Baby

2009-04-25T11:47:00.002-04:00

I have been off the climbing grid for a while, but it certainly hasn't been off of my mind. When I was laid off in December, one of my first thoughts was, "cool, now I can climb". The problem is that one can't decide to go climb and be climbing the next day. One must be in climbing shape first.

So, fast forward 4 months. I have made some significant headway on the job front and have some solid prospects. In addition to looking for work, I have been getting in to shape. Because I feel that if I don't, this time off was really a waste. I have been going to the gym a lot, working with a trainer, and found some killer vertical hiking in the area and wear my 40 pound pack when I do it. I am definitely now in better shape.

So, the trip to Ecuador that we have been eyeing (http://alpineascents.com/ecuador9-dtd.asp) is quickly approaching with a departure date of 6/20. The helpful people there have told me I would have to commit by 5/20. So, the combination of me being in shape, and 5/20 being 3 weeks away, and a job probably a month or two away, lead me to the exciting conclusion that I might go climb some volcanoes in Ecuador. And with training, come blog posts. So, look for my blogging activities to be stepped up!

What to do, What to do

2009-02-23T13:10:00.003-05:00

I am very indecisive lately. We are still thinking about Ecuador and looking at a trip with Alpine Ascents in June. I am a little worried that if we plan it, it might be at risk due to the slight possibility of finding a job. I am in the interview process with one company that I am hoping works out. If it does it might crimp June. If It doesn't, I think I can commit.

Also, if it doesn't work out, I warned my wife that it might be time for another day climb of Mt Washington!

Sorry for the dull post.

Local or Big? The Guide Discussion

2009-01-10T15:40:00.002-05:00

As I previously wrote, I am thinking about going to climb some volcanoes in Ecuador while in the midst of my job hunt. The first thought is to make Cotopaxi the big climb, but who knows. Depends on who goes, partners, timing, etc.

So here is the question: Do people use local guides or american guide services? Should I go with Alpine Ascents, who is first class, and pay for it, or go with a guide local to Ecuador who was referred to me by a friend of a friend that has climbed Cotopaxi twice? They both have plusses and minuses. Alpine Ascents is top notch, but you pay for it. Also, do I need to pay them for a tour of Quito and all the other non climbing stuff? And the local guide is much cheaper, but he is local. Could he provide much of the same service as AA?

Unemployed? No Problem...Go Climb Something Huge!

2008-12-18T09:43:00.003-05:00

So, its been a long couple of weeks and a while since I have posted. The past few weeks have been life changing. How you ask?

I was laid off from my job at Starwood Hotels last Tuesday night after 3.5 years there in interactive and loyalty marketing. (On a side note, any jobs out there, let me know!!!!!).

It was quite a blow but I would be lying if I didn't admit that I was somewhat expecting it.

In any case, I am fine and have some time before I have to find "a" job, as opposed to "a good" job. So what to do, what to do? First of all, I ate. Pretty much whatever I could find. I started talking to people and decided its the perfect time to get into shape, so starting next week, its exercise time. When we get back from vaca, its off to the gym and maybe even a trainer.

Someone suggested, "why not go climbing, something big"? The theory was a potential employer might love to hear, "well, I can't start next week since I will be climbing in the andes". So that's what I am working on. A trip to Ecuador to climb some amalgamation of volcanoes like Cotopaxi, in the photo above. I will start blogging again because a) I have nothing but time, b) I enjoy it, c) i can update on exercise and d) it will be fun to update on Ecuador planning.

Loos with Views and an Update on Me

2008-11-23T20:35:00.004-05:00

I am pretty dull lately. A lot of work and time at home. I did go to Vegas a few weeks ago for work but that is as exciting as it gets for me lately. We are trying to figure out next climbs. Possibly Shasta or some place like that in Feb or March for this years winter climb, and then probably Baker again in the summer, maybe through Summit for Someone.

I have been hiking lately, with my 30 lb or so pack. Its great to get out and now I have all the gear for cold weather hiking. I have been hiking a lot in Ridgefiield, trying not to get overly fat and complacent.

Oh, and my most exciting news is that the book with my photo from the toilet on Baker finally came out. Its called a Loo with a View and is available at Amazon. Its written by Luke Barclay. Click on the link on the title to go to the Amazon page. I am the last page of the book where you are asked to send in your photos.

Finally

2008-11-10T20:57:00.004-05:00

Two things. First of all, I FINALLY lost a toe nail today. Scroll down and you will see a previous post that shoes a photo of the big toe on my left foot after Rainier. Thats NOT the one I lost. I lost the one on the big toe of the right foot.

Second of all, we are trying to plan the next climb. We are discussing Baker in the summer, me, Keith, Jay and Mark. We came across Summitforsomeone.org. Have you ever heard of it? You climb mountains, and raise money for inner city youth to experience the great outdoors. Pretty cool. We are thinking about it.

Long Time

2008-11-03T21:56:00.001-05:00

I haven't blogged in a while mostly because I haven't had anything to do with climbing since the successful summit of Rainier.

I have mostly sat around, not exercising and eating everything possible. I am trying to figure out what to climb next, whether its in the winter or the summer.

Mt. Baker looks like next summer with some of the Rainier crew, but we are also discussing a winter climb of Shasta or somewhere else like it. Who knows.

Boring post, but at least I did it!

Keiths Rainier Photos

2008-08-22T12:32:00.000-04:00

Windows Live Spaces

Some Random Things I learned on Rainier

2008-08-17T19:21:00.003-04:00

Bring a pee bottle
Never blue bag when you can use an outhouse, even if you have to smell of it for a while
Always bring an iPod
Cram and Jam
Where boots extremely loose
Rent boots that are too big so your toes don't look like mine at the end
Mini bagels are of no use on Rainier, especially a bag of 12
Use the stairs in Mt Rainier National Park to train to climb Rainier
Go up and down in style
Always send OK messages from your SPOT on the way down or risk the wrath of your wife and mother in law
No matter what you do, you will hurt for a week after!

Day 3 - The Descent - 8/11/08

2008-08-17T19:05:00.002-04:00

We left Columbia Crest and headed back to the crater for a quick snack and water break. Then the descent. OY!

JJs team left first and then we headed out after they were already gone. I think Stuart wanted to catch them as our pace down made our pace up look like we had been sleeping. We ran down that MOFO! We met up with JJ on top of the cleaver which we were NOT excited about descending. Luckily, Stuart realized the shoulder of the Cleaver would be much less scary so we descended that way. But, we saw EVERYTHING that we didn't see on the way up! Much scarier when you can see it!

Stuart had me lead through the Cleaver and all was fine until I made a decision but it wasn't the right one. Eventually we got back on track and Stuart took the lead. We made it through the Cleaver, ran through the Ice Fall and made it back to high camp. 20 minutes to pack our gear that we left, and we roped up and headed back over Cathedral Gap into Camp Muir and the kitchen tent. I was dripping in sweat as I had on my helmet and soft shell too. We drank a ton, said goodbye to JJ who stayed there, and started to descend the snow field. The day was incredible! Perfect blue sky, no wind.

So, the snow field. I think I hate John Muir and his f'ing snow field. It was warm and slushy, so every step became a slide and a fall with a 50 pound pack on. I fell at least 15 times, no joke. I was one of the last to the group but we met up and continued down. On the way down, Stuart saw the person who had set the speed record on Everest (10.5 hours from base camp to summit and back) who is going for the Rainier record this week. We were too tired to talk to him and just stayed where we were. Ultimately, after lots of slush, sliding and bitching, we made it to Pebble Creek (7200 feet) for our last break. Thats when the fun started. My big toes started to kill as they kept jamming into the front of the boots. From Pebble Creek down is all stairs and steep downhills to the parking lot. I felt my legs just stop. I was the last one down by a lot, but I did get down! Meaghan was a big help and walked down with me for a bit. When I got to the parking lot, it took me 5 minutes to take off my wool socks, no joke.

We took the van to longmire to check out, used the bathrooms and drank a ton of water. My butt was soaking from the falls on the snowfield, soft shell pants are NOT waterproof!

Big discussion over Whittakers vs Copper Kettle for lunch and Stuart won out and we went to Copper Kettle. Burgers and Beers were awesome, and a lot of discussion around vulcanologists, where people would climb next, and Meaghan's veggie burger with bacon and coffee and a beer. Keith had an old fashioned BlackBerry milkshake, whatever that is. We went to Whittaker to return some rental stuff and saw Ed Viestures there, pretty cool. We drove back to Seattle (which felt like it took forever) and de-issued our gear. I went with Mark to the Westin, checked in, cleaned up and had a drink with him. I ordered a pizza, ate it in bed, and passed out.

Day 3 - Summit Day - 8/11/08

2008-08-17T18:48:00.004-04:00

So, we "go horizontal" at about 4 pm to rest up for the big summit push. Mark claims I tried to snuggle but I dispute that. As mentioned in a previous post, I had to pee about 30 minutes into my bag and held it in for almost 8 hours until 12:30 am when they woke us up. I have to admit, part of me was hoping, due to the wind, that they might not let us go. I am glad they did!

We packed what we needed for the summit push and left the rest (sleeping bags, food, etc) in the tent to pick up on the descent. We had our hot drinks in the kitchen, and I had a couple of breakfast bars. It was very windy but very clear. The stars were amazing.

We roped up and started climbing. The route would take us through an ice fall first, where we sped through, and onto the dreaded Disappointment Cleaver. We made it to the Cleaver and WOW! It was the scariest thing that I have climbed. We had crampons on, and were climbing on boulders, scree, loose rocks, all in the dark with sheer drops on both sides. The climb was very solitary, no chatting at all. and thats not like me! We were short roped, 4 to a rope. I did wonder how more people don't fall or get hurt, but, amazingly, no one did. We were all thrilled when it ended, but worried about descending through it. We took a "10 minute" break, which I am convinced never lasted for 10 minutes, put our parkas on and off, and headed out again. We kept climbing up the glacier with tons of switchbacks and some pretty steep sections. One foot after the other in dark and wind. I used a lot of footwork techniques; duck walk, 12-3, cross overs and did a lot of power breathing to counteract the altitude.

My legs were fine but I started to worry about my ability to descend. At high break, I expressed my concern to Stuart. I loved the response. "You have 3 minutes (than 2, than 1) to decide if you are commiting to continue up or not." No, "you can do it, you are doing great" or any coaching, just pure, cold, facts.

I continued on. I took an espresso lovers GU pack (2X the caffeine!) and felt fine. Tons more switchbacks and steeps on the way up. My favorite piece had gaping crevasses on the right (with ladders and protection, just in case) and a 50 degree snow slope to the left that dropped off after 30 feet or so and a 2 foot wide path! Yikes! Still pretty cool though.

Around 5:30 or so, JJ on the first rope team said "Congratulations, you are about to summit Rainier". WOOO WOOOO WOOO!!!!! Amazing feeling as we came over the lip into the crater. I almost started to cry. This was 2 years in the making and I made it! The crater was bathed in the pink light of sunrise and was gorgeous! We dropped our stuff and a few of us headed across the crater to Columbia Crest, the true summit (I felt fine now). We walked across the crater and signed the register of summiteers. We then hiked up the rocks onto the snow and the ridge to the top. the wind was pretty strong but nothing would deter us. The view was incredible. Mt Adams, Hood, St. Helens and a ton of other mountains. Beautiful sunrise and we were above the clouds. We took a lot of pictures and descended the ridge back to the group and the crater.

And now a break in the story to discuss BLUE BAGs

2008-08-17T17:54:00.003-04:00

OK, so, Blue Bags. Since mountains are generally pristine, the goal is now to Leave No Trace and pack out whatever you pack in. Yes, that means that too. If you poop it, you bag it and pack it. Before the trip, we were given blue bags. We were instructed to use them to poop in if there were no toilets or outhouses. So, in Camp Muir, we were all obsessed with the concept of pooping as often as possible so as to not have to either poop at high camp in the "shelter", or to have to unclip from your rope and poop on a completely exposed glacier on Summit day. So, we all pooped as often as possible in the most foul outhouses ever. I almost gagged and barfed after my first trip to the out house. The best part was how the smell stayed in your clothes for hours after. Suffice it to say, I timed my poops perfectly and never had to use a blue bag. Amazingly, no one on our climb blue bagged. I wonder if thats a record?

Day 2 - Camp Muir and High Camp - 8/10/08

2008-08-17T12:19:00.006-04:00

We woke up in the hut after a protected night from the wind and horizontally blowing snow. Some people, who shall go nameless, peed in special water bottles that are dedicated to pee so they don't have to leave their sleeping bags. I am not that smart, but I will be next time! YES, there will be a next time!

JJ woke us up around 6:30, we packed up our stuff and headed over to the kitchen tent for breakfast.

In the kitchen tent, they made us blueberry pancakes, sausages and hot drinks. This was certainly a first class climb! They also told us to poop as much as possible so we wouldn't have to blue bag it. After breakfast, and the obligatory bowel evacuation, we went to snow school to practice cramponing, ice axe, rope team and footwork routines. We ate our pre-summit meal of Pasta with Pesto, roped up, and proceeded to cross the Cowlitz Glacier en route to our high camp at Ingraham Flats at 11,100 feet. the climb across the glacier was easy although there was a threat of rockfall. After the Cowlitz, we reached Cathedral Gap, an area that was all loose stones and scree. Not fun! Very difficult to get a foot hold and we slid a lot. Little did we realize that it was a precursor of Disappointment Cleaver. We reached high camp which was incredible. Great views of the summit, Little Tahoma (3rd highest peak in Washington) and Disappointment Cleaver. We met for hot drinks in the "kitchen" and got our summit briefing after we picked our tents. Mark and I tented together. Being honest, i was nervous and went through a period where I questioned why I was doing this and if this would be my last climb. Really, the only part that got me nervous was the prospect of climbing the Cleaver in the dark at 1:30 in the morning. The team was strong with no weak links, so we went to our tents to "go horizontal" and rest at 4 expecting to be woken up at 12:30 am or so. Of course, 30 minutes into my sleeping bag and I had to pee. I held it in for almost 8 hours!

Day 1 - Up to Camp Muir - 8/9/08

2008-08-16T17:51:00.006-04:00

I met Mark in the lobby of the Sheraton Seattle at 5;20 to cab over to Alpine Ascents. We met up with the rest of the group, loaded our gear into the back of the van, and headed up to Ashford, WA, kind of the gateway for Mt. Rainier National Park. We stopped for breakfast and coffee at the Whittaker Bunkhouse, a place where climbers stay started by the Whittakers, famous climbers. We had breakfast there and bonded with the group some more. I hung out with Keith (who decided that week to go climb something -- if only i was in that kind of shape!), Jay and Mark. We made sure to use the toilet as we had no idea what was waiting for us later in the day. After bathroom, last minute gear rentals, and breakfast, we headed up to the Paradise Lodge to gear up and start moving. It was pretty crowded in the lodge with climbers getting ready and tourists incredulous that climbers were getting ready! We spoke to some nice people, filled water bottles, put on boots, gators, etc and got ready. Of course, one of my trekking poles broke but luckily AA (Alpine Ascents) found me a spare.

We started our hike. I soon realized, this was ALL going to be uphill, until the summit! The hike and park are gorgeous. Wild flowers, snow fields, green meadows, glaciers, waterfalls and views of Rainier everywhere. On the way up, John the guide and I discussed the merits of Team America vs. Anchorman.

About an hour in we took our first break. We ate, drank, and learned some basic footwork tips. The break ended and we hit the Muir snowfield. Overall, the hike to Camp Muir was about 5 hours, 5,000 vertical feet and extremely monotonous. All of us had altimeter watches (all about the gear). You couldn't see anything as we were in a white out condition. The hike was literally one step after the next up the snow field. The only thing that kept us going was a peaking Rainier through the clouds once in a while and a desire for the snow field white out piece to end.

At Muir (10,000 feet), we got to stay in a hut share by RMI and AA/IMG. The weather turned while we were there. It was highly windy and even snowing for a while. When it was clear out, it was incredible. Most of the time was in the hut. We ate in it and slept in it. I slept on the second level platform between Mark and John. We ate well, chicken quesadillas, hot drinks, and some moldy brownies. Stuart joined us (another guide) and gave us tips, and outlined the following two days for us. I used the outhouse which almost made me barf. Got into my bag, got ready to sleep, joked around with Mark and Keith and of course, then had to go pee. Oh the inhumanity!

Start of the Climb - The Gear Check - 8/8/08

2008-08-16T09:18:00.004-04:00

So, the gear check is the beginning of the climb where the guide runs through the entire equipment list, tells you whats really needed and gives tips on what to bring and what sizes to wear. For example, JJ, our lead guide, told us to get boots that were way too big so they didn't hurt your toes on the descent. Guess who ignored that one and paid the price? Hence the heinous big toes!

Mark missed his flight so wasnt there for the check. I was introduced to some of the team, Kurt, Freeman, Tim, Jay, John. The gear check lasted for about 2.5 hours and was extremely thorough and very valuable. Of course, i realized everything that I forgot as well. I picked up all of my rental gear, boots, ice axe, crampons, helmet, bag pad (which I gave back), and got my blue bags (more later) and my Alpine Ascents TShirt!

I ended up bringing way too much stuff and food so I took a lot out. The stuff I left, and I gave Mark half the food since he wouldnt be able to shop. JJ gave some great tips which were repeated throughout, power breathing, rest stepping, eating and drinking and to overall, take care of our selves. That was our primary responsibility. I went back to the hotel and watched the opening ceremonies (amazing) from the bar at the Daily Grill next to a bunch of drunk women from Alaska who were in town for craft and quilting shows.

Slide Show of Mark's Rainier Photos

2008-08-15T20:44:00.001-04:00

Mt. Rainier Climb Video - Stills

2008-08-14T22:11:00.003-04:00

Video made from all my still photos of Rainier using iMovie.

Slide show of Mt. Rainier Climb

2008-08-13T01:15:00.001-04:00

Mt. Rainier Climb Video August 2008

2008-08-13T00:59:00.004-04:00

Video of our just completed summit of Mt. Rainier. Blog postings to come soon.

2008-08-08T22:55:00.001-04:00

So it begins. outside alpine ascents post gear check.

Ready or not, here I come

2008-08-03T09:21:00.003-04:00

So, one week from today, I will be waking up from probably a lousy sleep at Camp Muir on Rainier. Do I care about the lousy sleep? Not at all!!!!

I am SOOOOOO excited! I have come to realize lately, that for me to truly disconnect from the world for any period of time, i need to go to remote places that focus all of my attentions on myself and my surroundings. So, does the thought of no blackberry, no cell phone, no laptop, no email, no IM, no meetings, no documents, no kids, no wife, no dogs, no house, no mortgage for 3 days sound appealing? YOU BET YOUR PATOOTIE!

I have been excersizing a fair amount between hockey, treadmill on an incline and hiking, but the only way to determine if I am really ready is to go and climb the bad boy. I am off to LA tomorrow, then on to Seattle. If all goes well, one week and one day from now I should be descending from the summit of Rainier. I am not a religious man at all, but will take all of the support that I can get on this one! Stay tuned for updates as I can send them.

Weekend Wonderland

2008-07-26T20:09:00.003-04:00

So, I can't blog about work as people from work read my blog on occassion. Therefore, lets talk Hockey and Hiking, and things that start with "H".

Last night, we had our second, big, Yellow Jackets game in 3 nights. Last night was against the Panthers. Two of our best players got thrown out really early. We only had 7 to begin with, so once they got thrown out we were down to 5 plus a goalie. What does that mean you might ask? It means that the 5 of us played the entire game with no rest at all. It was pretty exhausting. My back was killing me.

So I slept for 5 hours and then drove the wife and kids to the airport. I got home, and being the idiot that I am, went for a 2 hour hike. Needless to say, my body is not very happy with me right now. But, I am climbing Rainier in 2 weeks from today (WOW!!!!!) so I have no excuse to not work out. Am I in shape for it? Who knows. I hope so. Only the Mountain will be able to tell me for sure.

Work, Work, Work and TRAINING

2008-07-13T15:54:00.002-04:00

So, all work and no play makes Burt a dull boy. I have been working a ton lately trying to keep up with all that is going on. That being said, its only 27 days until i start the climb on Rainier. ARGH!!!!!!!!

So, I am training in my free time. The pack is up to about 47 pounds with weights and a full camel back. I went out for two hours yesterday around Hemlock Hills near my house, as its the hilliest area around with some steep sections. I played hockey friday night, hiked for 2 hours on saturday, and hiked the treadmill for an hour today.

While hiking the treadmill, I played Grand Theft Auto IV. Anyone played it? Pretty wild. I opted not to kick the guy off the roof, although I have certainly gunned down and driven over my fare share of pedestrians! Pretty wild game, the graphics are great. I also just finished Call of Duty 4, which might have been my favorite video game that I have ever played. The multi player is awesome also even though I tend to survive for only a few minutes.

Burts Famous -- well actually his toilet photo is

2008-06-22T10:35:00.004-04:00

So, funny story. I am on Facebook, duh. One day I get an email from a chap who asks about my photo, the one to the left for a book he is writing.

Of course I don't trust him and ask him to prove who he is. He works for the BBC, is British, and is writing a book and wants my photo of a LOO! He checks out and tells me he will get back to me if I make it in.

I just found out. I made it in! I am a professional photographer now!

I will put the title and link in when the book comes out. I haven't signed over the movie rights yet, so if you are interested, let me know.

Onward and Upward

2008-06-22T10:28:00.002-04:00

Wow, long time no post. Its been a while but I am back in the saddle and training for Rainier. Everything I do, I do it for you...just kidding (shout out to Bryan Adams). Everything I do, I do with a 40 lb pack. Whats in it? All my gear PLUS a 10 lb dumbbell (my 7 year olds favorite word).

I am hiking as often as possible on weekends, and during the week, playing hockey, doing stairmaster and treadmill on highest level with my pack on.

So, why no posting? I have a new area of responsibility now. I don't usually blog about work, but I work for Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc (can I get props for using the trademark correctly?) lead a team of people responsible for brand interactive marketing, website initiatives and call center strategy. In addition to that team, I am now leading the Marketing for Starwood Preferred Guest (SPG) our loyalty program. So, needless to say, I have been busy. Very busy!

But, that doesn't put my climbing ambitions aside, I just have to work harder to realize them now.

Anyone know of any good soft shell pants?

Scott Waxenberg is the greatest husband ever -- or, What Shmoopie has told me

2008-05-10T11:10:00.002-04:00

T Shirt ideas for our New Company:

If you can't bag it, fuck it!
Fuck it or bag it
Got Bark?
Designed by Tim
Eisenhower sucks (bites, is a jerk...)
Jackson Rules
Paper, plastic bag with Steve (ask Scott)
Peak baggers do it multiple times

Who is better than Scott Waxenberg -- or, how do I get the shit smell out of my clothes after using a composting outhouse

2008-05-10T11:07:00.003-04:00

More Randomness:

Scott learned about the sound of rain on a tent and its non corrolation to the strength of the rain shower outside the tent
We woke up at 5:45 and I made everyone go back to sleep, finally waking up at 8
Scott had to use the outhouse twice in the dark
Grey jays are beggar birds

Scott Waxenberg is God - Or, don't climb 75 degree slopes wearing snow shoes

2008-05-10T11:02:00.002-04:00

More Random Thoughts:

Not sure what kind of president Pierce was, but his mountain rocks!
Scott Waxenberg don't need no stinkin' snowshoes
If you fall into a deep hole wearing snowshoes, its help to have Steve Nishiro there with a snow shovel to dig you out
Climbing 7 hours a day for 2 days is hard
Peanut Butter sandwiches are nature's perfect food
I hate Eisenhower
There are a lot of peaks and knobs now named after Dillon
I fell in Moose shit
My sleeping bag could keep a family of Inuits warm for a year in theArctic -- a little too much for 40 degree weather!
It rained on Sunday

Scott Waxenberg is awesome - or, don't fall in moose poop and rinse your hand in icy cold streams

2008-05-10T10:57:00.002-04:00

Random thoughts from NH:

Thank god we had a 2 person tent big enough for one person
It was beautiful -- around 40 degrees. we were well prepared with sleeping bags rated to -20
Sara rocks! She set us up from the EMS office in NH. She is, in essence, the Russell Brice of the Presidentials.
Scott drew WAY too many parallels to Brokeback mountain and Deliverance, but he truly loves his smoochie (I had to say that)
Nothing tastes better than Beef Stroganoff, Chicken Teriyaki and Chili spiced Ramen noodels from foil bags
With all due respect to President Eisenhower, his namesake mountain SUCKS
We were going to get there but weather set in and Eisenhower mocked us. BASTARD

Scott Waxenberg is my hero, or what I learned in the Presidentials April 2008

2008-05-10T10:53:00.003-04:00

So, where to begin. This post is way overdue but work has been insane lately and unfortunately, i have had no time at all to post.

Mark, unfortunately, never made it to NH. He was stuck in O'Hare for 11 hours. Ergo, the dedication of these posts to him. The irony is that Mark is truly my climbing partner, although Scott is coming on strong, and of the three trips we have planned, we have only climbed together once!

So, what follows will be a number of random thoughts from the NH trip distributed across an equal number of random posts.

Peak Bagging in the Presidentials NH, April 2008

2008-05-10T10:52:00.001-04:00

From Mountain to Great Big Mountain

2008-04-22T21:43:00.003-04:00

The odyssey that is this week begins! Tomorrow, its off to Scottsdale Arizona for the Freddie awards, the penultimate awards show for travel loyalty programs. GO SPG!!!!!!!!!!!

While there, we have an event with an agency where we will have a healthy breakfast and then go hike up camelback mountain. Fun!

On Friday, after a hopefully hugely successful night (GO SPG!!!!!! -- did I already say that?) i get on a flight at 7:35 am and fly through Cleveland to Manchester NH on Continental. I then rent a car, drive 2 hours and get to North Conway NH at about 8:30.

Saturday morning, we meet at EMS, plan the weekend, hike in and camp below tree line overnight. Sunday, we wake up and go PEAK BAGGING!

This time, I will be smarter and not drive home sunday night, but I will head to the best nacho place ever where we had brisket nachos last year. Wax and I then drive home on Monday.

What a week!

A psychological look at the amassment (is that a word??) of gear

2008-04-06T11:44:00.003-04:00

First of all, I have no idea if its legal or not to use the REI logo. But, if I was them, I would love the fact that people want to add their logo to blogs! Being a brand marketing person, I would love that!

So, what is it about climbing and hiking that makes you want to amass gear? I am at a strange point right now. I get daily gear mail from REI and EMS, but I honestly don't think that there is anything left for me to buy!!!! OY!!!!!

I recently bought a -20 sleeping bag from EMS for my upcoming NH trip and my Rainier trip in August. Thats about it! Aside from a tent for camping with the kids, I don't need anything else. Is it time for a new hobby?

Just kidding. David Brashears started a facebook group called why we climb. Its interesting in that a) he is world famous and extending himself into social networking with the likes of yours truly and b) for a middle aged mountain climber it forces me to look inward into why I decided to take up this hobby.

My answer? The solitude. There is nothing that I can think of that disconnects you from everything as well as being dependant only upon your self, carrying everything that you need, and trying to overcome a big challenge and return safely!

Campus Tolerance

2008-04-03T20:59:00.004-04:00

A break from climbing posts. My mom has started a group, Campus Tolerance, that tracks bias incidents on campuses in an attempt to expose colleges and universities that have bias issues. Read this, its from the facebook page (http://www.facebook.com/pages/Campus-Tolerance/15798722323?ref=nf)

There is more bias and hate on college campuses than people realize. We set out with a pilot study to develop a tolerance rating, that allows prospective students to gauge how comfortable they will feel in a university environment and which universities they may want to avoid. We have just started releasing results and are looking to scale the research from 3 to 200 schools.

If you are interested, please become a fan of the facebook page and spread this around.

Thanks!

Ode to the Presidentials

2008-03-17T22:13:00.005-04:00

So last time we climbed in the Presidentials, we had a severe lack of respect for Mt. Washington. Leading up to it, I worked out for a week and expected to summit and walk into the gift shop to buy souvenirs on the summit jockeying in line with tourists in shorts and hawaiian shirts. We were so wrong that my favorite Dillonism was uttered after he had completed a marathon about 3 months earlier. "Marathons are for P_ssies".

So, no more lack of respect. I jumpstarted weight loss with South Beach. My wife finally yelled at me for not eating carbs 10 days into it so I am now on brown rice too. I was "not" myself. I am also working out again hiking and walking on max incline on my treadmill while wearing my 35-40 pound pack. And, most differently, I am on a homeopathic cleansing protocal that I don't understand but my wife tells me to do it and I am smart enough to just shut up and listen. I will tell you though, that Arnica does wonders on your back pain.

Check out this new web browser!

2008-03-03T17:15:00.001-05:00

so, I downloaded this new browser today. Its AWESOME!!!! Its called Flock (www.flock.com). It allows me to track all of my friends while I surf, view any media streams I choose, customize feeds, publish to my blog, etc. Climbing mountains is getting easier every day! Thanks Flock!

Blogged with the Flock Browser

Conquering Mt Treadmill in the Family Room

2008-03-02T21:13:00.002-05:00

Last Friday, my climbing partner Mark and I did a conference call with the nice folks at the EMS climbing school in North Conway NH. We decided on the weekend of April 5-6 and are going to do a hike up to below treeline, a night camping in the snow (i am hoping for a miserable night with tons of snow) and going peak bagging on the next day across some more of the presidential range, including Mt. Madison and others.

So, I have to drop at least 10. South Beach Diet, here I come!! I have also been working out with my pack, until, I slipped on the stupid F'ing dog toy on the stairs and broke/sprained my toe. OY!!!!

I am working on it, but staying on the diet and looking forward to the next workout.

What Should I Eat.com/.org/.edu

2008-02-24T20:46:00.004-05:00

So, my wife can't take me asking "what should I eat?" anymore so she is trying to get me to register the URL, whatshouldIeat.com but I can't get it. Even on Blogger.

But, 90% of the time, the answer to the question is Nachos. Is there a more perfect food? Carbs, protein, vegetables, melted cheese, all in one perfectly crafter pile of food.

I love nachos so much, that my nutritionist felt the need to call me out. I might have to make her a plate of my famous nachos to convince her to change teams. They are a great training food. Actually, the best nachos I have ever had, were in North Conway NH after last years Mt Washington climb. Brisket nachos, not something to be taken lightly.

Training isn't all climbing

2008-02-09T20:51:00.000-05:00

I am trying to look at my training regimen holistically. I went to a nutritionist a few weeks ago to start adopting my diet

I am eating a lot of Lara Bars and Cliff Nectar bars, all fruit and nuts. Of course, I need to be told exactly what to and what not to eat, so I still eat a fair amount of Nachos, otherwise known as Gods food.

I am about to take some tests to see if I am to high in yeast or other bad things. Once I find out, I will go on a strict regimen to accompany my hiking and working out. I will update the blog as my nutritional plan develops. Who says nutrition is boring?

Not all mountains are literal

2008-02-09T20:44:00.001-05:00

Tomorrow I leave for a conference of Interactive Marketing execs called iMedia. Its a fantastic conference with a high class list of speakers and great opportunities to meet a ton of people and to learn about what is coming up and what is starting to emerge.

I just found out that my climbing partner, Markzing, is attending the conference as well so we will get to catch up. He works for United Online. We can talk training and our next attempts in either NH in March, or on Rainier in August.

Long time no post

2008-01-27T11:21:00.000-05:00

So, admittedly, I am a slacker, but its been a while since I posted. You can see that we had a successful scaling of Nordhoff peak. My brothers in law finally cowboy'ed the F up and climbed that motha.

So now, whats new? New year! and a whole new attitude! With Rainier on the horizon, and a possible presidential range traverse for early march, I have decided to start the Extreme Makeover: Burt Edition immediately. What does that entail you ask? I am playing hockey 1-2 times per week, exercizing a lot more, and beginning to start training again by walking up treadmill, stair climbing, and outdoor hiking (even in 20 degree weather). I also went back to the nutritionist that helped reinvent me about 5 years ago. She is awesome. I am doing some tests to see how to tailor my diet, and I am on a whole regimen of supplements, vitamins, and homeopathic detoxes and remedies. Coming out of this, I should be able to fly, turn invisible, and shoot health rays from my fingers.

men of moore pha-sis

2008-01-01T12:56:00.000-05:00

This year we finally did it, the assault on Nordhoff Peak by the legendary Men of Moore. If not familiar, the Men of Moore, in this case, are the sons in law of the vaunted Moore clan of Ojai Ca. Enjoy the video.

Numerous names came out of the summit attempt. Flatulence flats, Tim's Turnaround, Dead Vole Corner, and others.

Stevil at the top of Nordhoff Peak

2007-12-31T16:56:00.001-05:00

Stevil posing by the USGS marker on the top of Nordhoff Peak. The hike took 5:15 and was straight up hill. We have talked about it for years but never done it until this year.

The Next Climb

2007-11-25T20:17:00.000-05:00

The next climb has been decided. Mark and I spoke after the Baker climb and agreed on climbing Rainier next. We went back and forth on Guide companies. RMI is the classic guiding company on Rainier, but they come across factory like. They also do the skills on the mountain, but only spend one night.

We looked at Alpine Ascents also. They offer a 2:1 guide ratio, and you spend all 3 days and 2 nights on Rainier for a more expedition like experience. We decided to go forward with them.

Of course, I haven't started training yet. We are trying to find something to climb in feb or march, maybe a presidential traverse in NH, but the 20 mile trek above the tree line in NH is a little daunting. Not a definite no, but we are working on it.

2007-10-08T18:54:00.001-04:00

My room at the us grant in san diego

What's Next?

2007-10-02T21:12:00.000-04:00

Great question. I had such a great time that I will definitely keep going. We are currently discussing another Mt. Washington trip this winter, and either Baker or Rainier in July.

I will keep posting because it amuses me. This is absolutely a hobby I will keep up with. As i told my wife, I am 42, so its either a trophy wife, a sports car, or climbing. And climbing gets me in shape and keeps me healthy!

So, in all seriousness, what else did I learn?

2007-10-02T21:11:00.000-04:00

We made the right decision to turn around. The mountain went into total whiteout with huge winds. the climb would have been extremely dangerous had we continued.

We also met a climber who started from the trail head the same day he planned to summit by a ridiculously hard route by himself and underdressed. Stupid decision bud!

So, I learned what to do, and what not to do.

Day 2, the end

2007-10-02T21:08:00.000-04:00

so we were going to camp for one more night while all the wusses on the mountain left. By 3:15 pm, when the wind was about to rip my tent off the moutain side with me in it, we decided to make our second smart decision and hike out.

Angela had to close the toilet for the season for the ranger (and his friend Ant). GROSS!!!!! At least she had plastic gloves.

It rained and snowed on us the entire time we packed out. We ran into a unibomber and a boy and a girl hiking. It made no sense to hike, so we decided the unibomber guy was out to kill people and the boy was going to propose to the girl. Big Huge WHATEVER!

New Phrases I am Hoping to Introduce into the Climbing Lexicon

2007-10-02T21:05:00.001-04:00

Grandma's Overlook

an easy to get to overlook

Road Crevasses

Potholes on roads

Holing Out

Stepping into a crevasse on a glacier.

How to put them all together?

"Dude, I totally holed out on a road crevasse by grandma's overlook"

One rule when combining them, you MUST use at least one "DUDE"

Things I learned on my trip

2007-10-02T21:03:00.001-04:00

When winter camping, you spend a lot of alone time in your tent
You want the rope to make a smiley face between you and your rope partner
Water does NOT boil quickly
There are mice on the mountains in the Northern Cascades
Prussiks are for rescue -- use friction hitch to attach to rope
I love high altitude outdoor toilets
Do NOT pee in running water sources
I don't love wind that blows snow in your face
Climbing is all about you, not about anyone else.

Mt. Baker Climb - Day 2

2007-10-02T20:53:00.000-04:00

So, day 2, summit attempt day. The alarm went off at 3:15 am with the goal of being out by 4. It was pretty easy to get up, as it was FREEZING!!!!! I made some pitas with cheese (which I found in my pack 2 days later), ate some watery oatmeal for the first time in my life, drank some black coffee, used the AMAZING toilet with a view. I borrowed the stove for some coffee, and melted plastic from my new pot all over the fire holes. Can you say moron? By the time Angela sawed off the hard plastic shell now sitting on the stove, we headed out.

We hiked up to where we would crampon up. The only light was our headlamps. It was amazingly cool and beautiful to be walking on a huge glacier in the dark. We kept going forever, but I was having a blast. The foot of fresh powder was a killer, but I loved it anyway. We crossed snow bridges over crevasses, and walked around quite a few huge holes in the ground. I did pretty well keeping up with Angela's pace and only taking a few mini stops. (I had to keep up, I was roped in).

We got to about 9500 feet, and the team in front of us said they were going back down. We turned around and saw why. White clouds covered the mountain side and the trails we just made. We went a little further and decided attempting to summit wouldn't be smart so we turned around. Getting down was tough. The winds were very strong and covered the trail we had just followed. The snow was filling in the crevasses, and I actually "holed out" 3 times on the way down.

I was slightly dissappointed not to have summited,but I had an incredible time and learned a ton. My favorite quote about climbing is from Ed Viesturs, "Getting to the top is optional, getting down is mandatory." Looking up as we descended, the upper mountain was covered in clouds and we could see the high winds swirling.

All in all, I loved it. I learned a ton about climbing and glaciers, and experienced making good decisions. Angela was awesome. I will definitely be back to get to the top at some time.

Mt. Baker - A Toilet with a View

2007-10-02T20:49:00.001-04:00

So, as an aside. The campsite had toilets which were basically a box with a toilet seat out in the open. The views were fantastic! I would have to say to experience a toilet at 6000 feet with a view of the lights of Vancouver is as close to God as I might ever imagine being!

Mt. Baker Climbing Trip Day 1

2007-10-02T20:40:00.000-04:00

So, today was Friday, 9/28, the first day of my adventure. I had to be at AAI at 7, so I woke up at 5:10 to make sure I was packed and to eat. In honor of Mike Bauer, I went to Denny's and had a huge omelette, taters and toast to bulk up for the climb. It was gross but great! While eating, I enjoyed reading how the Mets were completely choking.

I got to AAI and met Angela my guide. She was great, extremely nice and knowledgeable. There was another group of two guys and a guide too, and both of them had good climbing experience. Angela and I stopped for burritos and headed off on the drive to Baker. It poured the entire drive until we hit the trail head, where there was a blizzard! Who knew, snow in September!!!!

The hike in was beautiful. Tall old trees, creeks and waterfalls everywhere. We made great time and got to camp around lunchtime. We couldn't see the summit the entire day because of the weather. We camped at 6000 feet at Hogsback and worked on some skills, specifically roping, crampons, ice axes. We decided to try and summit on saturday as the weather for sunday was forecast to be horrible.

My Mt. Baker Climb

2007-10-01T17:48:00.001-04:00

Breakfast of Champions

2007-09-28T09:02:00.000-04:00

Breakfast pre climb

Day One and All is Wet

2007-09-27T23:28:00.000-04:00

So, I finally got to Seattle today. Easy flight on JetBlue. I had a great close up view of Rainier on the way in, and could actually see it from the ground too which I took as a good omen.

Got my car and started driving north. A few calls and a trader joe's stop later, I hit Bellingham. Stopped at TJ's for all the snacks, lunch type food, instant coffee and oatmeal. The hotel is fine as you can see from the photos. Not a Starwood property, but ok nonetheless!

Ran out to REI to buy some freeze dried foods for dinners including veggie curry, pad thai and chili, all vegetarian of course. Who wants freeze dried meat? YUCK.

Got back to my room and repacked my stuff and all of the food. It went pretty well, perfectly in time for me to unpack and repack everything tomorrow when I meet the guide.

I have to be at AAI at 7, and have to have eaten before I get there. Can't wait to eat gross food at 6 am! Oh well, this might be my last post until Sunday night or monday. Have a great weekend!

2 Days Until Departure

2007-09-25T20:33:00.000-04:00

I am down to the wire and not blogging nearly as often as I should be. So, I leave Thursday morning from JFK to Seattle. Work has been very stressful lately, so I am happy to be jetting off to the remote wilderness where email and cell phones don't exist!

A lot has happened. My partner got sick, got a fever, felt he wasn't in shape, and backed out yesterday morning. So of course, I get panicked. Can I still go? Will the guide co cancel on me? I sent them a scared email last night, and got a reply today.

I can go with my guide, like a private mountain climbing lesson for 3 days, or I can join a group of 2 others. What are they like I asked? They have both climbed Rainier, one is going to climb in Bolivia, they have both taken 6 day courses and have prepped for Denali. Guess which one I opted for? Right, the one on one with the guide. I am realizing that this one is as much about my confiidence level as it is about the climb. Next time, I will go with the more experienced guys.

Any who, I will try and blog from out west with my cell, not sure if it will happen. I am very excited about this and very nervous at the same time. Will I summit? Will I sleep at all? Will I be able to eat? Will I crack my teeth on frozen Cliff bars?

I am trying to be Zen, enjoy the adventure for the adventures sake. It will be one of the most adventurous things I have ever done.

3 Weeks and 1 Day

2007-09-05T21:29:00.000-04:00

I am now 3 weeks away from my trip. My plan is to travel to seattle and buy tons of food when I get there.

My training has been interesting. 2 hour hikes on the weekend with my 40 lb. Gregory Baltoro pack. 20 of the pounds coming from dumbbells. NOT FUN!!! but good training nonetheless. During the week I am using machines, treadmills and stairmasters while wearing the 45 lbs. Its interesting to wonder what the weight limits are. I am probably around 190, but with pack I am around 235. Is that legal? will that kill the machine?

Almost all of the equipment is now rented or purchased aside from a compressable down jacket. Any thoughts on a make and model?

Update

2007-08-12T17:54:00.000-04:00

The summer has been an interesting one. The family went away for three weeks to visit the inlaws in Ojai CA and I joined for the last week. You know what? I worked more! Not anything else that exciting. I saw Harry Potter (good) and Transformers (awesome). By the second week though, I missed the fam. I found myself working, and when not working, looking around the silent empty house and thinking, "what now?"

So, I went hiking. I bought a new 4300 cubic inch pack, a Gregory Baltoro from EMS (I had a gift certificate). I packed it with all of my climbing stuff, added a 10 pound weight and the occassional full CamelBack, and started hiking all of the hills I could find. Routinely, I am now hiking 1-2 hours with at least a 30 pound pack. I wish I could find more elevation, but I live in CT. Not horrible, but no 4,000 mountains either.

My new promise to myself is that any indoor exercize, including stairmaster and treadmill, I now do wearing 30 pounds on my back.

Other thoughts? Very excited about the football season, go CHARGERS!!!! Very excited about what the Yankees are doing, GO YANKEES!!!!!! and having a lot of fun with the family.

Ta Ta

Training

2007-07-15T19:48:00.000-04:00

I am about 2.5 months away from my big Mt. Baker climb and my training is going well. I live in a hilly area and try to do trail runs/hikes 2-3 times during the work week and at least both weekend days. I live in Ridgefield CT and there is a 360 acre reserve that connects to other reserves a mile from my house. There are lots of ups and downs, and plenty of rocks and tree routes to climb over.

Two other things. I bought a camelback hydration reservoir and I love it! I can keep going and keep hydrated on the go.

My training is also including weighted packs, as now on my weekend hikes I am carrying a back pack with a 10 pound weight and a full camel back coming in at around 20 pounds. So far so good, my back is fine. My knees are aching a little so I am trying not to run with the pack.

The family is out of town now so I can train when I want to for as long as I want too.

Getting There

2007-06-29T21:04:00.000-04:00

So, I think I have mentioned before that I work in Interactive and Call Center Marketing for Starwood Hotels. This week, I was at the Phoenician (Beautiful, and not saying that as a company man) and the shower was incredible! Thats not really on topic, but you have to like huge drenching showers in the middle of a 120 degree desert.

So, it was the usual bevy of blah blah, but the night time activities and the social pieces were great. But, you ask, being that this is a blog about my middle age crisis and dream of becoming the next Edmund Hilary, what does Phoenix have to do with anything????

Luckily, the Phoenician (with the great showers) abuts (now there's a word that should be used more often) CamelBack Mountain, a 2500 foot mountain in scottsdale az. So, being that I am in training for the September Baker adventure, I thought to myself "self, there is a mountain in walking distance just daring me to climb it". So I did. The first time was the warm up, the "get a feel for it" hike. But day 2, with a climbing interactive marketing partner, we summitted. Its an awesome hike. Trail for a while, but a lot of scrambling to get to the top. Very good feeling when you hit the top, until you hear the story about the 70 year old who does it 3 times every day!!!!

The best part, we didn't see one rattlesnake!

So, now what do I do?

2007-06-17T21:30:00.000-04:00

Since I finally have a climb set, I now have to start getting ready for it. What do I do? First things first, I need to obsess about looking at gear and ways that I can spend even more money. I found a gear exchange which is great, www.geartrade.com.

I bought a book on Amazon to tell me how to get into shape, and I have started hiking, running and trail running. I figure I have 3.5 solid months to get into shape, so I'd better make the best of it.

A Big Mis-Blogging!

2007-06-17T21:24:00.000-04:00

First of all, for the 3 people that have ever read this blog, I apologize. We wanted to climb Rainier, but alas, International Mountain Guides would only let me climb with them if my wife signed the waiver. Here's how that conversation went:

" Honey, I really want to climb Rainier with them. Will you sign the waiver form too so I can go?"

"let me get this straight, if you go and die, and I sign, I can't sue? HA HA HA HA HA HA HA"

That was almost verbatim! So, I was SOL. I found a new company, American Alpine Institute, through which I signed up for a private 3 day climb of Mt Baker at the end of September with my partner Mark. FINALLY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Trying to find a climb in September has been as exhausting as the climb will be!

The Tallies are In

2007-06-04T20:07:00.000-04:00

The die is cast. After months of waffling, the decision has been made to scale Mt. Rainier at the beginning of the low season on September 27th. We are going with International Mountain Guides which is owned by famous climbers Eric Simonson (who emailed back and forth with me - how cool is that?) the Erschlers and others.

I am so excited about it. My shoulder is recovering, and I am starting to eat better and beginning to think seriously about exercising (thats the first step). I am thinking that exercising is a good thing to do before climbing a 14,410 foot mountain.

Of course, I have ordered a DVD of climbs on Rainier and a book by Eric Simonson.

One obstacle remains: MY WIFE!!!! She is supportive of my doing the climb, but she is required by IMG to cosign my waiver. Her reaction? "why do I want to sign something that says if YOU die I can't sue?" Tough to argue, but I will nonetheless.

Stay Tuned!

And the winner is

2007-05-19T13:01:00.000-04:00

So, thanks to the 4 people (you too mom!) who voted on the next mountain for me to climb. The winner, is Mt. Rainier. Alpine Ascents, who one of the commenters on this blog recommended, has a trip in September which is perfect. I am having my shoulder surgery this thursday, which will give me 3 and 1/2 months to recover and get into shape. I am in decent shape, but not Mt. Rainier shape.

Spring Break

2007-04-22T11:52:00.000-04:00

So, last week was spring break, hence my no blogging. But, I AM BACK!!!! Good news on the injury front. The Right knee is sore, but getting better.

My Shoulder, however, not so good. My right shoulder has some tears in the laborum, some minor arthritis, and some other injury. My Dr is putting me on a limited course of PT, and then we might have to head towards Arthroscopic and 2-4 months before back to full strength.

So what does that mean for my climbing career? It means I will have to climb later in the season. Still working on Mt. Baker, but I now found out that Alpine Ascents has a September climb of Rainier. I really wanted to go with RMI since they are legendary, but, the September date might be calling me home.

I feel so sad

2007-04-12T20:40:00.000-04:00

I feel so sad about what has happened to Imus. Talk about injustice. Fire a guy who raises $ for kids with cancer, army vets, autism and SIDS because he said something stupid, that he owns up to and apologized for.

What is this world coming too?

The Sissy-fication of America

2007-04-11T21:54:00.000-04:00

While I usually post on non controversial topics, I just HAVE to weigh in on the Imus thing. When did the US of A become soo sensitive that any comment is cause for a major press story?

Imus is a great person. He brought Autism to the forefront of public and congressional consciousness, helps kids with Cancer and does a lot for SIDS. This is a guy that should get fired for a mistake? He apologized personally to the people he offended. Does Dave Chappelle or others do that?

I DONT THINK SO!!!! As the phrase goes, COWBOY THE FUCK UP PEOPLE!!!!!

I just can't deal.

Last Post for the Night

2007-04-08T20:39:00.000-04:00

ok, so, my big Greek blogging dilemma. I am an aspiring mountain climber as is obvious from my blog. I also play ice hockey, have a pilots license, have an incredible family, and a job on the leading edge of brand interactivity.

How do I discuss all of these things without losing my loyal audience? I know, I don't have a loyal audience. but, I have had 127 people come here since I started the blog. I am working on it. Not sure yet how to integrate all of my life's passions!

Getting into shape

2007-04-08T20:33:00.000-04:00

So far, my getting into shape regimen includes 40 minutes, 4-5 times a week, of working out on a stairmaster or walking the maximum incline on a treadmill. The other day or two, I am playing D level ice hockey for the Brewster Ice Arena Yellow Jackets. GO JACKETS!!!!

My wife is scared that I am overdoing the exersize, but I am enjoying it and realizing that I have to be in MUCH better shape than I was for Mt. Washington, or I will be risking a lot more than my pride!

So away I go on a work out effort. The road is long, but, he ain't heavy, he's my brother. I am DRIVEN!!!

Where to, Where to?

2007-04-08T20:28:00.000-04:00

So, the longer I research next potential climbs, the more potential locations I find. Today, I was looking at REI's site, (www.REI.com), for expedition packs, and came across their adventure travel section. They offer climbing trips in the US to Mt. Washington (done it) and Mt. Shasta.

Now Mt. Shasta is interesting. Its over 14,000 feet, but the closest airport is REDDING, CA, 60 miles away. I am sure there are many direct flights from the NY area to REDDING, CA. NOT!!!!!! (yes, I still enjoy the NOT jokes).

So, judging from the poll results on the blog (I think the only voters are me and my mom, because I told her too) and proximity to a major airport, Mt. Baker is still in the lead. My big question now, is "am I flying solo, or going with my Mt. Washington partner? Only time will tell.

Looks Like it Might Be Mt. Baker

2007-04-05T21:34:00.000-04:00

So, media conferences aside, where do I/we go next. After much research, and the unfortunate news of the RMI Rainier sellout, I found Alpine Ascents. They have a cool site and guide all over the world. They have slide shows, cybercasts, and a whole lot of information.

I was looking for a moderate climb, since Rainier wasn't available, and I think I have settled on Mt. Baker. At 10,781 ft., its smaller than Rainier but offers the real climbing experience. 65lb packs, camping on the mountain for two nights, early morning ascents, skills training etc.

The big open question is who's going. I am definitely in. My partner just started a new work gig and is far from committed to the climb. Brothers-in-law? Friends? Husbands of friends? All are welcome, who will climb?

MAMC - iMedia Edition

2007-03-27T00:26:00.000-04:00

I am at iMedia Breakthrough 07 this week. I guess its time that I explain what I do. I work with a team that manages the Starwood brands across interactive marketing, web site development and call center strategy.

iMedia is a conference that brings together clients, agencies and sellers. The sessions leave something to be desired, but the real value is in the networking. Today, for an hour and a half, we had a "speed dating" session where the brands sat at a table, and the sellers had 60 seconds to explain what they do before rotating on to the next brand. I met a ton of people. Tonight, Bob Garfield, of Ad Age spoke. Talk about arrogant! We were not nearly as impressed with him as he was!

So, Whats next?

2007-03-23T21:27:00.000-04:00

Not really sure. I called RMI Guides (www.rmiguides.com) and they told me, much to my dismay, that all Rainier trips are booked for this year. So, what to do, what to do. Do we climb with someone else? NO! You can't climb Rainier without RMI, the best known guiding company in the USA, and perhaps the world.

So we research. Mt. Baker, Grand Teton, Mt Whitney, who knows. We are working through it right now. By early next week, we should have a plan.

Then, getting into shape really has to kick in to high gear. Maybe Core Performance program.

My Hardest Climb to Date

2007-03-11T12:11:00.000-04:00

So, where have I been? Coming off of Mt Washington, I developed a slight chest cold. We went to Ojai for a week, where I overdid it on a hike. The night we got home, I came down with the Flu. The sickest that I have ever been in my life. Alternating uncontrollable chills and high fevers, a cough that made me pull muscles and felt like I cracked a rib, nausea, well, you get the picture. Completely miserable.

So miserable, that I couldn't read a climbing magazine, or look at pictures of myself from Mt Washington. I even considered ending my climbing career.

BUT, no longer. I am almost back and we are in discussions for Rainier. One thing I know is that I won't be going if I am not in shape!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

In N Out - The perfect Training Meal

2007-02-22T14:29:00.001-05:00

Does it get any better than In N Out? There is nothing like a double double animal style to get the juices flowing with expectations of great climbs!

After that, it was off to Real Cheap Sports in Ventura CA to buy some trail running (training) shoes and a day pack.

When your heart says yes but your body says no

2007-02-21T11:43:00.000-05:00

So, today was to be the summit attempt on Nordhoff peak, towering 5,400 feet over Ojai CA. George, my brother in law and I were all geared up for the summit attempt. However, no one asked for my right knees buy in to the plan. So alas, my knee, who needs a nickname, put a KIBOSH on the plan, so here I sit scaling the heights of the blogosphere as opposed to scaling the heights of Ojai.

Ojai and Training

2007-02-19T19:29:00.001-05:00

So this week I am in Ojai Ca on vacation at the in laws. Its a beautiful spot with great hiking and elevation changes. Being that we are getting ready to commit to Rainier, I am hiking as much as I can. We tried to get up to Nordhoff peak yesterday, the peak in the photo. We had to turn around after a few hours for fear of risk of spousal unhappiness, but we will be shooting for our second summit attempt later this week.

The summit!!! Woo Woo!

2007-02-16T20:56:00.001-05:00

The summit!!! Woo Woo!
Originally uploaded by jburtrosen.

OK, just to prove that we actually did it, here is a photo of us at the summit!

Have a great week next week, I won't be near a computer!!!! WOO WOO

Day 5 and Feeling Alive!

2007-02-16T10:21:00.000-05:00

5 days post climb. I am feeling much better, aside from the collection of fluid in my lungs (just kidding honey).

My knee is healing and I don't feel like a 90 year old anymore. In fact, I am now all about Rainier this summer.

I am about to leave for a week at the in-laws in Ojai Ca where I intend to begin my training in earnest for Rainier by hiking straight uphill as often as possible.

In the mean time, happy presidents day!