Mt. Normal Life

Here I am sitting around on a Saturday morning thrilled that I just have to do normal holiday errands.  Given that I don't have a lot going on today (yay) I thought I'd post a blog. The interesting (if you call it that) part is that I really don't have much to say. 

But here is what's going on with me. I'm on the umpteenth iteration of an idiotic diet to lose weight. My dad died young, and it's always on my mind so I am consciously thinking about how to get healthier. Obviously food is a critical component. 

I also decided I was tired of not being in great physical shape so I've started doing P90X. So far so good. I just finished week 2 and am happy with the discipline its i stilling in me. Results?  Kind of but not really for another few weeks. I guess I am able to do more of the exercises now than I was when I started so that's something. 

As for climbing, this is the tough time of year. I can hike but can't really climb until March at the earliest. But then I get caught up in kids activities so I can't really climb until late July or August. 

I'm thinking this year of trying Fishers Chimneys on Mt Shuksan, a tougher route up rainier or maybe even both. With my P90X training I should be able to conquer anything. 

As for the blog, I think it's going to evolve. I've always tried to focus iron the climbing side of middle aged mountain climbers, but I honestly see some middle aged thoughts starting to creep in. 

Stay tuned. The beauty of this blog is that it's really therapy for me.  If you like it too, it's a bonus!

My inspiration for climbing

I've read tons of climbing books. Everything from kids climbing Everest to stories of the earliest climbers. By far, the book that's inspired me the most is Seven Summits, the story of Dick Bass and Frank Wells and their efforts to be the first to climb the highest peak on each continent. I just re-read the book again and its still inspirational. It's what's led me to climb. If you haven't read it I suggest you do. 

Me on summit of broken top with the three sisters behind me

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Originally uploaded by jburtrosen.

Broken Top

Finally got back out in the mountains. It's been an incredibly stressful winter and I needed to take refuge in a tent, and on a mountain in the middle of nowhere. My choices for a weekend climb were Mt Hood or Broken Top, a 9175 ft. Volcano near Bend OR in the Three Sisters Wilderness. I opted for Broken Top and was very happy that I did. It was beautiful and exactly what I needed. I went with a guide and we were the only two people anywhere near the mountain. A lot of snow shoeing on the approach.

Horrible weather at night. So bad we were making other plans on what to do for the day. The weather cleared up and we snow shoed over to 11 O'clock couloir, a 500 ft stretch of 40 degree snow/ice. Hardest climbing I've ever done but I loved it! Crappy snow and rock and we were pitch climbing the entire time.

Got to the top of the couloir, traversed the other side of the mountain, saw every volcano from bachelor to hood, and climbed the last piece to the summit. The last 10ft were the scariest but coolest thing ever. The snow was so bad I couldn't get my crampons to bite without pushing out my steps. Finally I scrambled up and made it! Really, unbelievably beautiful!

I realized a few things about myself. I love hard climbing. Way more interesting than walking up glaciers. And there is no question, my happy place is by myself on the side of a beautiful mountain with amazing views and a blue sky. Such an amazing experience!

Blogging and Climbing

I am now promising myself that I am going to start blogging a lot more.  Its kind of like a catharsis.

As I mentioned in my last post, from February, this is my do over year.  This weekend is my first chance at making last year right.  Last season, Mark and I attempted to climb Mt Shasta via the Casaval Ridge route, a route, our guide informed us, that "10s of people climb a year."  But, no summit do to snow conditions.  This year, in a fit of brilliance, we've decided to climb the more standard route, Avalanche Gulch, and do it in two days.  Day 1 up to a high camp, wake up at 12 am, climb at 1, summit, return to camp, break camp down, hike all the way out, and drive home 6 hours to Portland.  I have been exercising a ton so its now time to see if it will pay off!

The Mulligan of Climbing

This years theme is "mulligan mountaineering". The goal is to summit everything I have tried but haven't summited in the cascades. Namely St Helen's, Shasta and Baker. So far, St Helen's is scheduled for either late July or late August. Still working on the other two.

Early thoughts on 2012

Yes it's only November, but it's looking like the theme for this years climbing season is "summiting the unsummited". 4 mountains I've climbed and not submitted, Mt Baker, Mt Shasta, Mt St Helen's and Cotopaxi in Ecuador. Not much that I can do about Ecuador, barring a lottery win, so my focus will be on the other three. Currently the plan is looking like Shasta in June up the standard route, St Helen's I. Late July so my 13 year old can go with me, and Baker in August or September.

My wife is awesome and is on board, planning begins this week, than training!

Lame, but happy holidays

I have been so negligent on my postings for the last few months. Why you ask? No great excuse. Work has been pretty busy and the family takes time too! Both kids have chronic lyme disease which is one of the toughest experiences to go through. The symptoms are not obvious, so people have a hard time acknowledging that the kids are sick. The flairs are unpredictable, come and go, and aren't controllable or curable. The toughest part is watching the kids go through it and feeling helpless.

I guess the point is to be careful out there in the woods when hiking, climbing or just being. Those little ticks are bastards and don't discriminate.

Slide Show of Mt Adams Climb - 9/2010

Mt Hood Climb - June 13, 2010

Mt Defiance -- One Tough MoFo

Mt Hood is 2 weeks away so I am in the throes of the final stages of training. So, this weekend, I hiked up Mt Defiance. Who knows is any of this is true, but some people say its harder than Hood, and some people say its the toughest hike in Oregon. Whatever it is, its a killer! Basically, 4,900 ft elevation gain in 5.2 miles. Its literally straight up hill with very little rest. The views from the top are amazing although we couldn't see Hood since it was socked in.

This was more of a climb than a hike!

BCEP I could have loved you

I was all excited about the BCEP course with the Mazamas but I got the schedule and just can't do it. Its 6 weeks, with events almost every weekend day and monday night. Not sure how any guy with a high pressure job and a family can do it. and then, to make matters worse, my best person quit. so, too much work for burt to put his life on hold this year for 6 weeks.

so, back to weekend hiking and a new version of BCEP, Burts climbing education program. Here I come Gorge, Mt Hood and coastal range.

"Gearing Up"

I am not the blogger I once was. Since moving to Portland, life has been crazy. Working harder than I've ever worked, moving into a fantastic new house, hanging with the family and just creating a life here is fantastic, but exhausting! and my blogging has suffered.

Have no fear though. Monday, 3/15, i kick off the first night of the Mazama Basic Climbing Education Program. I joined the Mazamas when we got to Portland. The class teaches rock climbing, mountaineering and a host of subjects and gets me in shape to climb in spring and summer. 6 weeks, a lecture a week, 3 weekend sessions and at least 4 conditioning hikes. I can't wait. Also a great way to meet a lot of people. I will blog as I go through it.

Its On! Mt. Hood in June 2010

Happy New Year! Its been a long time. But, now that we live in the center of the outdoor universe, its time to commit. So, Mark and I are climbing Mt Hood June 12-13 with Timberline Mountain Guides (2 day summit program).

I am very excited to have it booked and to have a goal to train for. I am also going to try and take the BCEP program with the Mazamas group that I joined. They are a 100+ year old organization based on Portland who are all about climbing. It looks like 2010 is shaping up to be a nicely elevated year!

Also, looking into try Baker again in August. Wow, I am tired now. Nap time.

Climbing trip to Ecuador in 2009 - a Highlight!