I've read tons of climbing books. Everything from kids climbing Everest to stories of the earliest climbers. By far, the book that's inspired me the most is Seven Summits, the story of Dick Bass and Frank Wells and their efforts to be the first to climb the highest peak on each continent. I just re-read the book again and its still inspirational. It's what's led me to climb. If you haven't read it I suggest you do.
I was all excited about the BCEP course with the Mazamas but I got the schedule and just can't do it. Its 6 weeks, with events almost every weekend day and monday night. Not sure how any guy with a high pressure job and a family can do it. and then, to make matters worse, my best person quit. so, too much work for burt to put his life on hold this year for 6 weeks.
so, back to weekend hiking and a new version of BCEP, Burts climbing education program. Here I come Gorge, Mt Hood and coastal range.
I am not the blogger I once was. Since moving to Portland, life has been crazy. Working harder than I've ever worked, moving into a fantastic new house, hanging with the family and just creating a life here is fantastic, but exhausting! and my blogging has suffered.
Have no fear though. Monday, 3/15, i kick off the first night of the Mazama Basic Climbing Education Program. I joined the Mazamas when we got to Portland. The class teaches rock climbing, mountaineering and a host of subjects and gets me in shape to climb in spring and summer. 6 weeks, a lecture a week, 3 weekend sessions and at least 4 conditioning hikes. I can't wait. Also a great way to meet a lot of people. I will blog as I go through it.
Happy New Year! Its been a long time. But, now that we live in the center of the outdoor universe, its time to commit. So, Mark and I are climbing Mt Hood June 12-13 with Timberline Mountain Guides (2 day summit program).
I am very excited to have it booked and to have a goal to train for. I am also going to try and take the BCEP program with the Mazamas group that I joined. They are a 100+ year old organization based on Portland who are all about climbing. It looks like 2010 is shaping up to be a nicely elevated year!
Also, looking into try Baker again in August. Wow, I am tired now. Nap time.
As I previously wrote, I am thinking about going to climb some volcanoes in Ecuador while in the midst of my job hunt. The first thought is to make Cotopaxi the big climb, but who knows. Depends on who goes, partners, timing, etc.
So here is the question: Do people use local guides or american guide services? Should I go with Alpine Ascents, who is first class, and pay for it, or go with a guide local to Ecuador who was referred to me by a friend of a friend that has climbed Cotopaxi twice? They both have plusses and minuses. Alpine Ascents is top notch, but you pay for it. Also, do I need to pay them for a tour of Quito and all the other non climbing stuff? And the local guide is much cheaper, but he is local. Could he provide much of the same service as AA?
So, its been a long couple of weeks and a while since I have posted. The past few weeks have been life changing. How you ask?
I was laid off from my job at Starwood Hotels last Tuesday night after 3.5 years there in interactive and loyalty marketing. (On a side note, any jobs out there, let me know!!!!!).
It was quite a blow but I would be lying if I didn't admit that I was somewhat expecting it.
In any case, I am fine and have some time before I have to find "a" job, as opposed to "a good" job. So what to do, what to do? First of all, I ate. Pretty much whatever I could find. I started talking to people and decided its the perfect time to get into shape, so starting next week, its exercise time. When we get back from vaca, its off to the gym and maybe even a trainer.
Someone suggested, "why not go climbing, something big"? The theory was a potential employer might love to hear, "well, I can't start next week since I will be climbing in the andes". So that's what I am working on. A trip to Ecuador to climb some amalgamation of volcanoes like Cotopaxi, in the photo above. I will start blogging again because a) I have nothing but time, b) I enjoy it, c) i can update on exercise and d) it will be fun to update on Ecuador planning.
Two things. First of all, I FINALLY lost a toe nail today. Scroll down and you will see a previous post that shoes a photo of the big toe on my left foot after Rainier. Thats NOT the one I lost. I lost the one on the big toe of the right foot.
Second of all, we are trying to plan the next climb. We are discussing Baker in the summer, me, Keith, Jay and Mark. We came across Summitforsomeone.org. Have you ever heard of it? You climb mountains, and raise money for inner city youth to experience the great outdoors. Pretty cool. We are thinking about it.
We left Columbia Crest and headed back to the crater for a quick snack and water break. Then the descent. OY!
JJs team left first and then we headed out after they were already gone. I think Stuart wanted to catch them as our pace down made our pace up look like we had been sleeping. We ran down that MOFO! We met up with JJ on top of the cleaver which we were NOT excited about descending. Luckily, Stuart realized the shoulder of the Cleaver would be much less scary so we descended that way. But, we saw EVERYTHING that we didn't see on the way up! Much scarier when you can see it!
Stuart had me lead through the Cleaver and all was fine until I made a decision but it wasn't the right one. Eventually we got back on track and Stuart took the lead. We made it through the Cleaver, ran through the Ice Fall and made it back to high camp. 20 minutes to pack our gear that we left, and we roped up and headed back over Cathedral Gap into Camp Muir and the kitchen tent. I was dripping in sweat as I had on my helmet and soft shell too. We drank a ton, said goodbye to JJ who stayed there, and started to descend the snow field. The day was incredible! Perfect blue sky, no wind.
So, the snow field. I think I hate John Muir and his f'ing snow field. It was warm and slushy, so every step became a slide and a fall with a 50 pound pack on. I fell at least 15 times, no joke. I was one of the last to the group but we met up and continued down. On the way down, Stuart saw the person who had set the speed record on Everest (10.5 hours from base camp to summit and back) who is going for the Rainier record this week. We were too tired to talk to him and just stayed where we were. Ultimately, after lots of slush, sliding and bitching, we made it to Pebble Creek (7200 feet) for our last break. Thats when the fun started. My big toes started to kill as they kept jamming into the front of the boots. From Pebble Creek down is all stairs and steep downhills to the parking lot. I felt my legs just stop. I was the last one down by a lot, but I did get down! Meaghan was a big help and walked down with me for a bit. When I got to the parking lot, it took me 5 minutes to take off my wool socks, no joke.
We took the van to longmire to check out, used the bathrooms and drank a ton of water. My butt was soaking from the falls on the snowfield, soft shell pants are NOT waterproof!
Big discussion over Whittakers vs Copper Kettle for lunch and Stuart won out and we went to Copper Kettle. Burgers and Beers were awesome, and a lot of discussion around vulcanologists, where people would climb next, and Meaghan's veggie burger with bacon and coffee and a beer. Keith had an old fashioned BlackBerry milkshake, whatever that is. We went to Whittaker to return some rental stuff and saw Ed Viestures there, pretty cool. We drove back to Seattle (which felt like it took forever) and de-issued our gear. I went with Mark to the Westin, checked in, cleaned up and had a drink with him. I ordered a pizza, ate it in bed, and passed out.
We woke up in the hut after a protected night from the wind and horizontally blowing snow. Some people, who shall go nameless, peed in special water bottles that are dedicated to pee so they don't have to leave their sleeping bags. I am not that smart, but I will be next time! YES, there will be a next time!
JJ woke us up around 6:30, we packed up our stuff and headed over to the kitchen tent for breakfast.
In the kitchen tent, they made us blueberry pancakes, sausages and hot drinks. This was certainly a first class climb! They also told us to poop as much as possible so we wouldn't have to blue bag it. After breakfast, and the obligatory bowel evacuation, we went to snow school to practice cramponing, ice axe, rope team and footwork routines. We ate our pre-summit meal of Pasta with Pesto, roped up, and proceeded to cross the Cowlitz Glacier en route to our high camp at Ingraham Flats at 11,100 feet. the climb across the glacier was easy although there was a threat of rockfall. After the Cowlitz, we reached Cathedral Gap, an area that was all loose stones and scree. Not fun! Very difficult to get a foot hold and we slid a lot. Little did we realize that it was a precursor of Disappointment Cleaver. We reached high camp which was incredible. Great views of the summit, Little Tahoma (3rd highest peak in Washington) and Disappointment Cleaver. We met for hot drinks in the "kitchen" and got our summit briefing after we picked our tents. Mark and I tented together. Being honest, i was nervous and went through a period where I questioned why I was doing this and if this would be my last climb. Really, the only part that got me nervous was the prospect of climbing the Cleaver in the dark at 1:30 in the morning. The team was strong with no weak links, so we went to our tents to "go horizontal" and rest at 4 expecting to be woken up at 12:30 am or so. Of course, 30 minutes into my sleeping bag and I had to pee. I held it in for almost 8 hours!
I met Mark in the lobby of the Sheraton Seattle at 5;20 to cab over to Alpine Ascents. We met up with the rest of the group, loaded our gear into the back of the van, and headed up to Ashford, WA, kind of the gateway for Mt. Rainier National Park. We stopped for breakfast and coffee at the Whittaker Bunkhouse, a place where climbers stay started by the Whittakers, famous climbers. We had breakfast there and bonded with the group some more. I hung out with Keith (who decided that week to go climb something -- if only i was in that kind of shape!), Jay and Mark. We made sure to use the toilet as we had no idea what was waiting for us later in the day. After bathroom, last minute gear rentals, and breakfast, we headed up to the Paradise Lodge to gear up and start moving. It was pretty crowded in the lodge with climbers getting ready and tourists incredulous that climbers were getting ready! We spoke to some nice people, filled water bottles, put on boots, gators, etc and got ready. Of course, one of my trekking poles broke but luckily AA (Alpine Ascents) found me a spare.
We started our hike. I soon realized, this was ALL going to be uphill, until the summit! The hike and park are gorgeous. Wild flowers, snow fields, green meadows, glaciers, waterfalls and views of Rainier everywhere. On the way up, John the guide and I discussed the merits of Team America vs. Anchorman.
About an hour in we took our first break. We ate, drank, and learned some basic footwork tips. The break ended and we hit the Muir snowfield. Overall, the hike to Camp Muir was about 5 hours, 5,000 vertical feet and extremely monotonous. All of us had altimeter watches (all about the gear). You couldn't see anything as we were in a white out condition. The hike was literally one step after the next up the snow field. The only thing that kept us going was a peaking Rainier through the clouds once in a while and a desire for the snow field white out piece to end.
At Muir (10,000 feet), we got to stay in a hut share by RMI and AA/IMG. The weather turned while we were there. It was highly windy and even snowing for a while. When it was clear out, it was incredible. Most of the time was in the hut. We ate in it and slept in it. I slept on the second level platform between Mark and John. We ate well, chicken quesadillas, hot drinks, and some moldy brownies. Stuart joined us (another guide) and gave us tips, and outlined the following two days for us. I used the outhouse which almost made me barf. Got into my bag, got ready to sleep, joked around with Mark and Keith and of course, then had to go pee. Oh the inhumanity!
Video of our just completed summit of Mt. Rainier. Blog postings to come soon.
Wow, long time no post. Its been a while but I am back in the saddle and training for Rainier. Everything I do, I do it for you...just kidding (shout out to Bryan Adams). Everything I do, I do with a 40 lb pack. Whats in it? All my gear PLUS a 10 lb dumbbell (my 7 year olds favorite word).
I am hiking as often as possible on weekends, and during the week, playing hockey, doing stairmaster and treadmill on highest level with my pack on.
So, why no posting? I have a new area of responsibility now. I don't usually blog about work, but I work for Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc (can I get props for using the trademark correctly?) lead a team of people responsible for brand interactive marketing, website initiatives and call center strategy. In addition to that team, I am now leading the Marketing for Starwood Preferred Guest (SPG) our loyalty program. So, needless to say, I have been busy. Very busy!
But, that doesn't put my climbing ambitions aside, I just have to work harder to realize them now.
Anyone know of any good soft shell pants?
So, where to begin. This post is way overdue but work has been insane lately and unfortunately, i have had no time at all to post.
First of all, I have no idea if its legal or not to use the REI logo. But, if I was them, I would love the fact that people want to add their logo to blogs! Being a brand marketing person, I would love that!
So, what is it about climbing and hiking that makes you want to amass gear? I am at a strange point right now. I get daily gear mail from REI and EMS, but I honestly don't think that there is anything left for me to buy!!!! OY!!!!!
I recently bought a -20 sleeping bag from EMS for my upcoming NH trip and my Rainier trip in August. Thats about it! Aside from a tent for camping with the kids, I don't need anything else. Is it time for a new hobby?
Just kidding. David Brashears started a facebook group called why we climb. Its interesting in that a) he is world famous and extending himself into social networking with the likes of yours truly and b) for a middle aged mountain climber it forces me to look inward into why I decided to take up this hobby.
My answer? The solitude. There is nothing that I can think of that disconnects you from everything as well as being dependant only upon your self, carrying everything that you need, and trying to overcome a big challenge and return safely!
So last time we climbed in the Presidentials, we had a severe lack of respect for Mt. Washington. Leading up to it, I worked out for a week and expected to summit and walk into the gift shop to buy souvenirs on the summit jockeying in line with tourists in shorts and hawaiian shirts. We were so wrong that my favorite Dillonism was uttered after he had completed a marathon about 3 months earlier. "Marathons are for P_ssies".
So, no more lack of respect. I jumpstarted weight loss with South Beach. My wife finally yelled at me for not eating carbs 10 days into it so I am now on brown rice too. I was "not" myself. I am also working out again hiking and walking on max incline on my treadmill while wearing my 35-40 pound pack. And, most differently, I am on a homeopathic cleansing protocal that I don't understand but my wife tells me to do it and I am smart enough to just shut up and listen. I will tell you though, that Arnica does wonders on your back pain.
Last Friday, my climbing partner Mark and I did a conference call with the nice folks at the EMS climbing school in North Conway NH. We decided on the weekend of April 5-6 and are going to do a hike up to below treeline, a night camping in the snow (i am hoping for a miserable night with tons of snow) and going peak bagging on the next day across some more of the presidential range, including Mt. Madison and others.
So, I have to drop at least 10. South Beach Diet, here I come!! I have also been working out with my pack, until, I slipped on the stupid F'ing dog toy on the stairs and broke/sprained my toe. OY!!!!
I am working on it, but staying on the diet and looking forward to the next workout.
So, today was Friday, 9/28, the first day of my adventure. I had to be at AAI at 7, so I woke up at 5:10 to make sure I was packed and to eat. In honor of Mike Bauer, I went to Denny's and had a huge omelette, taters and toast to bulk up for the climb. It was gross but great! While eating, I enjoyed reading how the Mets were completely choking.
I got to AAI and met Angela my guide. She was great, extremely nice and knowledgeable. There was another group of two guys and a guide too, and both of them had good climbing experience. Angela and I stopped for burritos and headed off on the drive to Baker. It poured the entire drive until we hit the trail head, where there was a blizzard! Who knew, snow in September!!!!
The hike in was beautiful. Tall old trees, creeks and waterfalls everywhere. We made great time and got to camp around lunchtime. We couldn't see the summit the entire day because of the weather. We camped at 6000 feet at Hogsback and worked on some skills, specifically roping, crampons, ice axes. We decided to try and summit on saturday as the weather for sunday was forecast to be horrible.
ok, so, my big Greek blogging dilemma. I am an aspiring mountain climber as is obvious from my blog. I also play ice hockey, have a pilots license, have an incredible family, and a job on the leading edge of brand interactivity.
How do I discuss all of these things without losing my loyal audience? I know, I don't have a loyal audience. but, I have had 127 people come here since I started the blog. I am working on it. Not sure yet how to integrate all of my life's passions!
